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Fond Memories of Sardi's
For the time being, walking down 44th Street will feel a little more lonely. One of my favorite theater district traditions is closed for renovations in preparations for a 100th year re-opening soon (I hope). Sardi's Restaurant has been sold - to the Shuberts - and is now shuttered for kitchen and other internal upgrades. The new owners have vowed that the venerable institution will not change significantly in the front of house. How true that is remains to be seen, of course. But I look forward to once again be surrounded by caricatures of Broadway's biggest celebrities from the past century, eating some simple but elevated dishes, all while getting first-rate service as I scan the crowd to see who is there.
Over the years, I've been lucky enough to dine there several times. There's nothing like opening those heavy doors that kind of seal you in when they close, and stepping into what feels like a time gone by. Metropolitan elegance meets a hustle bustle that feels uniquely New York. No matter how busy they seem to be, the maitre d' always greeted us with a smile and a welcoming feel, acting as if we were the guests they were waiting to see all day. There is something extra nice in knowing that even folks from the suburbs got the same treatment as Tony winners, writers and directors.
And speaking of celebrities, I've seen Broadway favorites like Patti LuPone, Philip Bosco, and once, Neil Simon (a particular thrill for me). But my two favorite sightings were of all people Jo Ann Worley and Carol Channing. They were hard to miss. And even though I would never stare at anyone having a meal, and I would certainly never interrupt them for a picture or autograph, lots of people did. Well, these two dames embraced it. I doubt either of them had a single hot bite to eat. Ms. Channing signed and ate simultaneously, loudly announcing, "I learned to eat like this when I was in Dolly!" Ms. Worley invited her admirers to actually join her! And when she left, she cleared her throat, started twirling her long beaded necklace (a signature move), and announced to the room that she was leaving and we could resume talking to each other instead of talking to her! The room applauded, she laughed heartily and wished us a pleasant evening.
As fun as star gazing can be, the real stars at Sardi's is the staff. Each table gets a full compliment of servers who have mastered the art of being immediately available for your every need while not hovering. There's the water guy who seemed to keep my water glass full after every sip, mostly without me even noticing. There's the bread and butter server who always presented the beard basket to you as if he were presenting a newborn for your approval. The main waiter was always so cool, a tad aloof, mostly warm and always professional. Whether you were ordering a seafood specialty or a hamburger, each waiter acted like you were ordering the chef's special of the day. The entire entourage made you feel like you were the most important patron they ever served.
I have never had a meal or adult beverage there that I didn't love. A favorite memory of mine was the time my mother and I ducked in there during a blustery, snowy evening for a drink. We stepped into the dark bar immediately to the left of the door. It was like stepping into a time warp. The bartender called us "Sir" and "Madame" and treated my mom like a queen. But what I remember was the screwdriver I had, It was perfectly mixed and went down like water. I felt fine until I got off my bar stool and promptly fell on the floor! I had no idea I was drunk after just one drink, but there it was. The bartender came around and helped me up. Next thing I know, there's a basket of bread and butter and a large glass of water in front of me without even asking for it. What an experience!
Finally, over the years, menu items have come and gone, and I've enjoyed every meal, be it a turkey club or burger, a plate of spaghetti and meatballs or a steak. My all-time favorite things there, though, are the French onion soup and the Cannelloni au Gratin. Rich and delightful from first bite to last. Somehow, the food was the least of the experience. It is after all, a rite of passage for every serious Broadway lover.
I look forward to going back as soon as it opens. I hope it doesn't change too much.
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